Domino

Domino been an on-off Thursday night haunt for almost the entire time I’ve lived in Barcelona. It fulfills the mid-week requirements of cheap and cheerful with ease and is long overdue a mention on Moonraker Morsels. What Domino’s excels at is decent quality food and great mojitos, amongst other cocktails, at prices more attuned to Barcelona salaries. This compact drinking den with its slightly overused sofa and dark wood tables and chairs keeps us coming back again and again for those strong, sugary, mint laden mojitos and gorgeously thin and crispy pizzas. Pizzas are not the only thing on the menu, salads and empanadas are also up for grabs, but it’s the midweek (Sunday to Thursday) 6.85€ pizza offer that always gets our order. Nine pizzas are covered by the offer, at least two of which are vegetarian, and include our test driven margharita; salchicha sausage and onion; aubergine, courgette and pepper; mozzarella and serrano ham; ham and mushroom; mozzarella, onion and scamorza Italian cheese.

Mozzarella and serrano ham pizza

Do not be alarmed as we once were seeing the cook suddenly sticking a mop into the pizza oven! Had the place we had grown to love all this time been cleaning out the cooking space with the same mop to clean the floor?! Thankfully not, just a novel way of periodically cleaning out what must be a notoriously difficult, narrow, roasting hot space.

At times there can be hardly a corner to sit here, others it’s a haven of tranquility and quiet conversation, so don’t bank on either, and if going in a big group maybe give them a call ahead so as not to miss out.

Domino, C/Les Flors 16, Raval / Poble Sec

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El Sortidor

In these days of mass refrigeration and icey cold drinks being available at every kiosk to cool us down on the sweltering days, it’s easy to forget that chilling food and refreshments was much more of a chore in bygone years.  In a past incarnation El Sortidor supplied the neighbours of the Poble Sec barrio with ice for their refrigeration needs and the ice cabinets still in situ in the restaurant give testament to this fact. Situated on the Poble Sec plaça of the same name, this endearing restaurant makes dining there feel similar to starring in a French film noir. I was doing well at fitting into the role of a protagonist from that genre although my constant itching of my summer long succession of mosquito bites was something of a distraction from my personaje. Dinner, along with lunches and tapas which they also serve, can be enjoyed in these century old surroundings or taken on the terrace in the square outside. Or like my companion and I, you can sample a taste of both and finish your desserts, coffees and a strong cigarette at a small table in the evening air. The menu has a broad mix of Mediterranean influences with dishes from Spain, Italy and France making an appearance. We started with courgette flowers stuffed with bacalao salt cod paste and deep fried in breadcrumbs. These came with a dollop of guacomole on the side. Even my unartistic eye immediately noticed this was a nil point on presentation and although they’d been deep-fried just a little too long they thankfully more than made up for in flavour what they lost on first impressions. The guacomole was zingy and limey and was a surprisingly balanced accompaniment to the fried and salty courgettes.

Courgette flowers stuffed with salt cod paste served with guacomole

Our other starter was a slice of foie which we lathered on mini toast crispbreads and piled up with French fig and chestnut jam which was so delicious we asked for a second helping. The foie was very well seasoned and a generous portion which left us without toasts at the end.

Foie micuit with mini toast and fig & chestnut jam

The waiter recommended, amongst others, the ‘Castell de Remei Gotim Bru’ which was rather delicious even to my uneducated wine palate.One thing I love about eating out in Barcelona is that’s it’s not frowned upon to order main courses and share them. As a variety of pastas features heavily on the menu we plumped for a dish of pappardelle with confit rabbit ragú and offset this with a main course of duck breast in honey and balsamic sauce with parmentier potatoes (a very smooth mashed potato purée) and mushrooms.

Papardelle with rabbit ragú

The fresh pasta papardelle had a lovely bite and a slathering of the rich tomato sauce which could’ve done with being a little less stingey on the rabbit. This was a hefty portion as well and we congratulated ourselves on our wisdom for not ordering two pasta dishes for the main course.

Duck margret in honey and balsamic sauce, potatoes parmentier and mushrooms

The duck breast, the brown side of pink, would’ve been improved with a slightly crispier skin, however the whole dish was wonderfully balanced and moreish if slightly composed of the shades used in my parents’ living room in the 70s.

'Rus' with chocolate orange ice cream

Yet again a dessert got gobbled before the camera was whisked from its case, this time a simple, satiny white cinnamon ice cream which was superbly refreshing after the richness of the main courses. Our final dessert was, and remains, something of a mystery. Described as an almond and walnut tart it was slightly reminiscent of a very light bakewell tart with a layer of something akin to marshmallow through the middle. Despite my research I am slightly perplexed as to what this was. That said, the initially strange accompaniment of chocolate orange ice cream and berry coulis blended into a harmonious fruit and nut relationship.

The setting, ambiance, and pleasant, friendly service along with every dish pleasing us in some if not all ways left us departing contentedly. At 85€ for dinner for two El Sortidor is heading into the fine dining category yet at the same time left pretentions and stuffiness behind. As someone who struggles to make great food look good on the plate it galls me to criticise others for it, yet a touch more care with presentation would elevate them to high praise. In the meantime they continue to safeguard a piece of Poble Sec heritage and remind me often of the joys of easily procuring an chilled drink on a parched summer’s day.

El Sortidor, Plaça del Sortidor 5, Poble Sec

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Can Eusebio

No matter how grown up you are, there’s nothing like a good sign or notice with a rude word in it to make you go all puerile and giggly. Such is the case with the name of the bar next to Can Eusebio. If I hadn’t have chortled to myself I might never have noticed the wonderfully rough, ready and cheap neighbour in its midst. Patatas bravas for 1 euro? In central Barcelona? Let’s give them a whirl.

Though you’re offered a menu it’s really not necessary here as the walls are lined with yellow, laminated cards stating the dishes and rock-bottom prices and as always there is the omnipresent TV providing background entertainment. And for once, many of the customers crammed into the packed out bar had one eye on the screen showing the re-run of the pre-season El Classico ‘friendly’.  To quote a friend who recently visited “Spain could wipe out its economic deficit in a flash if they just turned off all the unwatched TVs in bars.”

The waiters here are slightly surly but are dashing out decent standard tapas at a furious rate. Those cut price patatas bravas hit the mark, crisp on the outside, fluffy in the middle and as I like them with the bravas sauce on the side.

Patatas bravas

The winning dish was the pinchos morunos, succulent, tender pieces of marinated pork that hinted of paprika, lemon and other spices. Some toasted bread and a dollop of alioli made this a moreish combination and was on the bill for a measly 3.30€.

Pinchos morunos

The generous portion of boquerones vinagre, anchovy fillets marinated in vinegar were as good as any I’ve had elsewhere and again were only 3.50€ per plate.

Boquerones vinagre

The potato bombas lacked the finesse and perfect sphericalness of those I ate at Lolita Taperia and were a little too soft, but had a comforting flavour of home in the sense they reminded us of stuffing. Once again, only another 3.50€.

Bombas

And finally pulpitos. If you’ve never eaten baby octopus then you really should try them. Cooked in garlic and parsley they are wonderful, especially if they have a little crispyness on the outside from being fried. Here they were marinera style so I was slightly disappointed when they arrived in a tomato and red pepper sauce, served only lukewarm. My fault for not being up on the different permutations of sauces, these were passable but I wouldn’t order them again.

Pulpitos a la marinera

The full bill for the food including two Cokes was only 18€, a bargain for a fair amount of grub. The laid back yet buzzing atmosphere make this a great place for a midweek get-together or pre-night out refuel. I might even make a habit of a plate and a euro beer on my way home from work and amuse myself once again with the neghbouring bar name. I’ll leave you to discover that one for yourself.

Can Eusebio, Vilá i Vilá 84, Poble Sec

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La Caseta del Migdia

Many visitors to Barcelona, first time or otherwise, will often make the obligatory trip to Park Güell (pronounced very similar to ‘way’ not ‘gwell’ as I have often heard and said myself). Personally I think this is foolish. Of course Gaüdi’s work is fascinating and the park does provide some good views of the city, but the hoards of tourists, grafittied cacti and lack of open green space to just sit and relax really spoil the enjoyment of it for me.

Instead you should head to Montjuïc, the lush green parkland, topped by the castle overlooking the port and the Mediterranean Sea. Although it looms over the city, it’s very much ignored by many visitors and residents, but I think with it’s various small gardens, some manicured, others a little wilder, the Miro museum building, Olympic swimming pool, stadium and facitilities it’s one of the city’s most precious gems.

The true jewel of the park, however, is La Caseta del Migdia, the open air bar that nestles under the pine trees a short walk behind the castle. The path that runs around the castle, scented by the sweet smell of the pine mixed with the smoky aromas of the barbeque, leads you to the open-air tables, deckchairs and view out to sea.Now, I’m not going to kid you that this is a beautiful, uninterrupted ocean view, as the bar is tucked behind the castle it looks out onto the container port. However, as you lean back into your seat all you take in are the clear blue skies and aquamarine sea beyond the cranes, storage tanks and containers. A plate of barbequed botifarra, chicken, salad, toast and sweetcorn is the tucker on offer here,  fresh and decent quality it’s a tad on the costly side at 12€ but a price that’s probably been calculated to take in the setting and the fact that this can surely only been a profitable venture during the spring and summer months even though it is open all year round. Reggae, soul, funk and laidback tunes, at an appropriately low volume, emit from the decks and provide a perfect accompaniment to a sun-drenched afternoon under the branches and rays.

Before you set off, throw a good book, your camera and a sweater in your bag. Those stunning views as you climb up to the castle, either on foot or by cable car, are unmissable. As for the sweater, being above the city, even in summer there can be a cool wind up on the hill, you don’t want a few goosebumps to spoil a laidback, balearic style afternoon.

Las Caseta del Migdia, Montjuïc Park. Open Thursday to Sunday all year.

How to get there:

Walking: The easiest way is to leave Paral.lel and walk up C/Margarit. This leads to a steep slope and about 200 steps which brings you out onto Avinguda de Miramar. At the top of the steps, turn left and you will meet the cable car station. From here walk through the ‘Jardins de Brossa’ until you hit the Carretera de Montjuïc. Walk uphill and you will eventually see the castle and final cable car station. If you stand in front of the station as if you’ve just come out of it, turn right and follow the path round to the rear of the castle, if you don’t divert from the path it will bring you out under the pine trees and directly to the bar.

By funicular and cable car: Take the metro to Paral.lel and then at this station take the funicular up and then join the cable car which will take you to the castle. The current cost of the cable car is 8€ return. From here, turn right out of the cable car station and follow the path round to the rear of the castle, if you don’t divert from the path it will bring you out under the pine trees and directly to the bar.

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La Bella Napoli

“The reason I like it in here is because it’s really relaxed” I commented to my friends on the Friday evening we ate at La Bella Napoli. “Relaxed?” was one’s astonished reply, “it’s so noisy I feel like I’ve been shouting all evening”.

For me the very fact that we could do two things I’m extremely proficient at, talking and laughing loudly, and that this place has none of the stuffyness or pretence of some restaurants is why I’ve always felt so at ease here. La Bella Napoli’s name is so appropriate as it has all the ingredients of what I, contrary to many people’s opinions, love about Naples. I pass here on a daily basis and there is always a flurry of activity and conversation on the street as the Italian staff are cleaning, unloading stock, smoking and chatting with the occasional acquaintance that stops to talk whilst revving the engine of their moto. These ingredients, plus that cacophany inside which my friend wasn’t so taken with and the general congeniality of the waiters are as if you are on the edge of the Tyrrhenian Sea.Inside you’ll find a simple trattoria feel and exposed brick walls lined with photos of old Naples and glitterati who have eaten here. However, this is not some overpriced, paparazzi chased famous people’s hang out, but a very unpocket-denting place to eat. The pizzas are pretty huge, all cooked to order in their impressive wood fired oven at the rear of the restaurant and all sit around the 10-12€ mark. Salads, calzones, meat, fish and pastas all feature on the menu. I didn’t try it but from a distance I admired (and asked about) the delicious looking pumpkin stuffed ravioli a fellow diner was eating whilst I enjoyable made my way through a quattro stagioni pizza. Again, straight out of Naples these are on ultra thin bases and have a sloppy, tomatoey centre.

Our desserts of ricotta cannoli, tiramisu and profiteroles were all delicious but far too chilled, nothing that a few minutes sat on the table to come to room temperature doesn’t solve though, if you can resist digging in. I was slightly disappointed for my friends not to experience what sometimes happens when you order coffee, but I’ll say no more on that one and let you hopefully find out for yourself.

This place is packed to the rafters most nights of the week, often with a queue waiting out of the door so it’s a good idea to phone and book ahead. Go with your best stories to regale your companions with, limber up those arms for some Italian-style gesticulating, speak at high volume, laugh at lot and sample for an evening a taste of La Bella Napoli.

La Bella Napoli, C/Margarit 12, Poble Sec

Photos courtesy of: vipgourmet.com; barcelona.unlike.net; minube.com

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La Cuina del Món

When it’s Saturday evening, you’ve been out all day, your a bit penniless and need feeding…..actually that last bit’s a lie, I didn’t exactly need feeding, not after a picnic, ice cream, horchata and a few afternoon beers, but nevertheless….what more could you ask for than a food tasting fair to be right on your doorstep?

Barcelona city council’s budget for free or very low cost arts and cultural activities continues to astound me, despite not having a clue what the budget is, never a week goes by without something going on for the citizens of this currently very balmy city.

‘La Cuina del Món’ was a project started in 2003 to show the culinary diversity of the Poble Sec barrio, an area of Barcelona which has seen a huge rise in immigration in the last decade. This project, which brings local people together to teach them how to cook, along with others I have read about, seems to be aimed at encouraging the local residents to get to know or at least appreciate the cultural differences of their neighbours. The 17 dishes presented at this event were prepared by 30 students from 22 different countries and the dishes originated in 15 of those countries, those being: Brazil, Chile, Columbia, Japan, India, The Phillipines, Morroco, Ethiopia, Senegal, Moldova, Ukraine, Catalonia, Domincan Republic, Cuba and Guatemala.

Carrer Blai

C/ Blai was turned into an outdoor restaurant for the evening of Friday and Saturday with tables along the pedestrain thoroughfare and stalls where you could purchase the 2€ taster plates .

A handy booklet in Catalan with information about the individual countries and recipes for the dishes was given with the purchase of tickets for the plates.

I made space for 3 plates following the afternoon’s eating session and chose the ‘Ropa vieja con chicharritas‘ from Cuba, which was shredded  beef cooked with peppers, garlic, chilli, tomato, olive oil and other ingredients I’m still not familiar with in Catalan and served with fried green banana chips, these being the ‘chicharritas‘. Along with this I had the Sengalese ‘Thiebou Diene‘, sardines cooked with assorted vegetables and rice, and finally ‘Casquinha de Peixes’ from Brazil, hake and mussels cooked with lemon juice, coriander, fennel seeds, tomatoes, onion and olive oil and this dish I particularly liked.

'Thiebou Diene', 'Ropa Vieja con chicharritas' and 'Moro de Guandules con coco' chosen by my friend

However, I do not want to critique the food here, this is not professional cooking and catering for an event like this is always difficult. What I want to celebrate is this event getting neighbours and others from the city out, sharing flavours and enjoying the warm evening air together.

For anyone interested in being involved in ths project you can contact http://www.poblesec.org for more details plus additional and better photos of the event.

La Cuina del Món, C/Blai (between Roser and Margarit), Friday 9th and Saturday 10th July

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Bemba

What’s sometimes worse than coming across somewhere that’s really miserable or finding a fantastic spot to eat, is finding somewhere that you really want to like but somehow just doesn’t quite come up to scratch.

For me one of the places is ‘Bemba’ tucked off the side of Parallel in Poble Sec.

I really want to like it, initially because I was lured by the promise of organic meat and the bar is a is a lovely space with exposed brick walls, beams and blues/jazz posters lining the wall and seemed to be bringing a better standard of ‘cheap eat’ to the barrio filled with many kebab takeaways.

And it isn’t bad, I just can’t seem to love it. I first went shortly after it opened a few months ago, I’ve tried to go again on several occasions for a Saturday lunch but the opening times displayed seemed to contradict the times it’s actually open, although it appears they are now only opening in the evenings and not during the day.

On my first visit I had the Salsa burger, a regular beef pattie garnished with lettuce, tomato, onion, cucumber and mayonnaise.  I was slightly disappointed that it was accompanied by bravas as opposed to regular fries and but on the first visit they were delicious with a crispy outside and a soft centre. I decided to reserve judgement until another visit and on the next occasion I chose the Rumba burger, on the insistence of the bartender. This comes with a fried egg, fried onions and bacon, which  in hindsight was obviously going to be a greasy option. This time the burger was over seasoned and accompanied by the bacon was very salty, plus the onions and egg just added far too much oil for my taste which the large piece of lettuce it was served with was just not enough to cut through. The bravas also tasted predominantly of sunflower oil which had leeched into the potatoes.

What Bemba does offer is good value, the bill for the burger, bravas and a coke came in at under 7 euros and whilst the burgers are not organic the other meat dishes on their menu are which gets a big thumbs up from me, although I do question why this is not the case for the burgers also, why not just go the whole way and offer it on all meat items?

It appears to me that Bemba is a work in progress, it’s not been open for very long and on both occasions I’ve been in (aroun 11pm on Friday evenings)  it’s been empty yet at other times there seems to be a crowd in listening to open-mic sessions held there.  The staff are eager to please and on both occasions have enquired if I enjoyed my meal, I just don’t have the heart to give them an honest answer to that yet.

Bemba

Blasco de Garay, 8, Poble Sec

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